http://www.cnn.com/2008/LIVING/wayoflife/10/15/aa.auto.detailing.secrets/index.html

Reality: Carnauba wax has been a favorite among car enthusiasts for years, but don’t believe that any wax is made of 100-percent carnauba. As the hardest natural wax known, carnauba is much too hard to apply directly to automotive paint. It comes in bricks that must be melted and added to a company’s formulation. If a paint protectant advertises "pure carnauba," it means the part of the formula that is carnauba is pure, not that it’s 100-percent carnauba. According to Pennington, today’s synthetic polymer technology actually provides better protection than carnauba.

Myth: Avoid a silicone-based wax. If used, the vehicle can’t be repainted.

Reality: It’s true that silicones are a bane of the auto painter. For instance, if particles of silicone are on the sheetmetal when it’s painted, they can keep the paint from adhering to the surface, causing defects known as fisheye. That’s why some professional cleaners and polishes intended for shop use are formulated without silicone. However, once paint is on the car, silicone is no longer an issue. In fact, virtually every wax on the market uses some kind of silicone in its formula because it enhances the product’s ease of application, gloss, and durability. If repainting is necessary, a body shop can easily take off the wax as part of its normal preparation.

Myth: You can assume that a finish that looks glossy is in good shape.

Reality: There are different degrees of glossiness, and a paint can dull so gradually you may not realize it’s happening. For this reason, don’t rely just on reflectivity to judge your paint’s condition. Use your sense of touch, as well. Place your clean, dry hand flat against the paint and slowly rub it along the surface. Feel with both palm and fingertips. A well-maintained finish should feel smooth as glass. Any roughness could be due to oxidation, tree sap mist, or adhered grit, all of which degrade a paint’s gloss to some degree.

Myth: Oxidation is a major problem for factory paint.

Reality: Until a few years ago, this was definitely the case. Today, however, oxidation is no longer the concern it used to be. Ultraviolet radiation from the sun was once a finish’s worst enemy, gradually causing the paint to deteriorate into a white, chalky dullness. In the last five to 10 years, new paint technology has come onto the scene that’s much more resistant to UV, allowing new-car paint to hold up many years longer. With older cars, though, oxidation is still a problem an owner should be concerned with.

Myth: Clear-coat finishes don’t require waxing.

Reality: Even though today’s clear-coat finishes are much more resistant to UV radiation, they’re still as susceptible to other environmental contamination. A clear coat is still just another layer of paint, and is subject to the same deterioration as paint with pigment. Therefore, periodic waxing is still recommended for maximum protection against the elements. Always use a non-abrasive formula labeled safe for clear coats. "The problem today is the stuff that lands on paint," says Pennington. Contaminants ranging from bird droppings and bugs to tree sap mist, industrial fallout, and airborne pollutants can adhere to the paint and gradually cause dulling and roughness. If left unattended, it can chemically etch into the paint, causing permanent scars. A quality wax can help keep the contaminants from bonding, but the best strategy is to wash them off before they can adhere.

Myth: With modern "easy-care" formulas, paint scratches can be easily removed by hand.

Reality: Scratches can be temporarily filled with some types of products, but they’ll likely reappear after your first wash. The only sure way to eliminate scratches is to use an abrasive product-such as a cleaner-that removes enough of the surrounding paint to physically make the scratch appear less deep. Pennington notes, though, there’s a wide range of scratches. Even with a cleaner, only the very lightest scratches can be removed by hand. As scratches deepen, they require more advanced methods, progressing in order from an orbital buffer, a dual-action polisher, a rotary polisher, and finally wet sanding. Scratches that go completely through a paint layer cannot be eliminated without repainting.

Myth: Machine buffing is dangerous for paint.

Reality: As mentioned above, there are different types of machines designed for buffing and polishing, and all are safe when matched with the right skill level. An orbital buffer, is the least aggressive type and can be easily used by the average do-it-yourselfer. A dual-action polisher is slightly more aggressive and therefore requires more care and skill to use safely. Finally, a professional-type rotary polisher can remove paint relatively quickly, making it a good choice for fixing damaged paint. This same trait, however, also makes it easier to burn through a paint layer unless used by an experienced person.

Myth: Swirl marks or spiderwebbing are found mostly in old or abused paint.

Reality: Even brand-new paint can quickly show spiderwebbing-very light scratches, often in a circular pattern, most easily seen in the reflection of a light. A number of products are designed to remove swirl marks, but Pennington emphasizes the real key is to find out what’s causing them. Spiderwebbing is commonly caused by unseen dirt on a towel, sponge, or chamois, and can happen either at a carwash center (even those that handwash) or in your own driveway, while you’re washing or drying your car. Even cheap towels can cause these marks. "Use a good quality terry towel with a thick nap," says Pennington, "and always use good car-care techniques."

Myth: A good paint protectant can even protect against fire.

Reality: Don’t be misled by sleight-of-hand. You may have seen a car wax salesman demonstrate the durability of his product by lighting a flame on the surface of a car and then pointing out that his product’s "superior protection" kept the paint from being damaged at all. What he sprays on the paint and ignites is lighter fluid, which burns extremely easily and quickly. In fact, the flame doesn’t actually touch the paint surface because it’s feeding off rising fumes. Usually, the paint gets no warmer than it would on a hot summer day, and you can place your hand on the spot immediately after the flame goes out and not be burned. Even paint with no protection at all will survive this test just fine.

Leather automobile interiors, once reserved for only higher end models, are now available in a variety of vehicles from compact coupes to gargantuan SUVs. Yet with the comfort and luxury of leather also comes a degree of added maintenance. As most of us don’t have a butler and staff to clean and condition the leather interior of our motor coaches, we end up having to do it ourselves.

Driving in the modern world can put more stress on leather than the tea and crumpets crowd ever dished out. Greasy fingerprints from forays with french fries can leave behind damaging deposits. Oil from skin or skin lotions can also harm leather if not regularly removed. Spilled milk, in the form of a latte, really can make you cry when you get the resulting repair bill. The good news is, thanks to modern science, proper care of leather interiors has never been easier.

With regular cleaning and conditioning, a leather interior will last for the life of the vehicle, even with all the abuse that the modern world can dish out. The main concern is to determine is what type of leather interior you have, then choose cleaners and conditioners designed specifically for the task. Traditional leather interiors are made of 100% leather, where as some modern interiors are leather coated with a supple vinyl. Suede, while itself a form of leather, calls for a completely different cleaning and conditioning process.

A quick test to determine which type you have is to use a small amount of cool clean water. Traditional leather will absorb water, where vinyl coated leather will repel it. Either way, a few drops of water won’t harm your interior. If you’re still questioning what type of leather interior you have, another good place to look is in your owner’s manual, or to contact the dealer or manufacturer directly.

The next step is to determine the right cleaners and conditioners for your leather. Saddle soap and conditioners, while good for your baseball glove or go-go boots, are not to be used on automotive leather of any kind. The soap contains alkalis, which can permanently damage the material in your seats. Household detergents and cleaners can damage leather as well. Always use only a product designed for the type of leather your vehicle has.
Removing harmful oil and dirt deposits is the crucial first step. Always use clean soft cloths to prevent damage to, or inadvertent removal of the leather dye. Stubborn dirt lodged into crevices may require the use of an upholstery brush. Removal of gunk and grime must be done before conditioning the leather, as you don’t want to permanently push these contaminants into the pores.

After the leather is clean conditioning is in order. If you are lucky enough to own a Ferrari with a Connolly interior your leather must be fed after cleaning with "hide food" designed by the very people who manufacture the interiors for the prancing horse of the asphalt and concrete world. For the rest of us there is a world of products specifically designed for all types of leather conditioning. Some products even come with ready to use pre-moistened cloths for easy detailing.
While cleaning and conditioning your interior be sure not to leave any tools or sharp objects in your pockets that could put a hole in your seats and your good time. As with any cleaner, conditioner or chemical that involves the potential for ruining something really expensive, always test first in a small, inconspicuous area before going too crazy.

We all love our cars. And perhaps our proudest moment is when the car is new and looks its best. A car, however, is not like a painting which serves its purpose in a controlled and safe environment. It is subjected to all sorts of abuses including the sun, dirt, and smog, all of which can affect the best automobile. But you can keep your car in new condition just like a painting protected in a museum.

 Five Steps to keep your car looking its best.

We start with scratches. Why? Because they are the biggest enemy to your car’s finish. And avoiding scratches is the secret to keeping your car looking good. Dirt and grime, rubbed in while washing or drying, will act like sandpaper and dull your car’s paint. There is one basic rule which will guide you whenever you touch the surface of your automobile.  Anything that comes in contact with your car’s finish should be soft.

 2. As much as possible, protect your cars finish from the elements.

This means storing the car in a garage or covered area. Also, the use of a car cover is highly recommended. A car that is constantly exposed to sunlight and other environmental hazards will deteriorate quicker and require significantly more cosmetic maintenance.
 

In addition to providing gloss and depth, wax will also protect your car from the elements, including sunlight and many other circumstances that you will encounter, from bug carcasses to bird droppings.
 

Make regular quick inspections of your cars surface a habit. Look it over and note its condition, keeping in mind its recent history and what you anticipate will happen in the future.
 

In most cases, washing your car once a month is adequate. Once every two weeks is better and necessary if the car is subject to harsh conditions.